PASTA PARTY

When gathering with loved ones this fall, reach for these recipes from the new cookbook Six Seasons of Pasta. They're delicious riffs on classic favorites and serve up pure coziness.

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Carbonara

SERVES 2

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal)

1½ teaspoons whole black peppercorns, plus more to taste

Extra-virgin olive oil

3 ounces guanciale or pancetta, thinly sliced

½ cup sliced scallions (about 4 large, white and light green parts only)

8 ounces rigatoni, bucatini, or fettuccine

1 egg

2 egg yolks

½ cup 50/50 cheese (half Parmigiano-Reggiano, half Pecorino Romano, grated in a food processor), plus more for serving

1. Fill a large pot (at least 6 quarts) with 1 gallon of water; add 4 tablespoons kosher salt, cover the pot, and bring the water to a boil while you make your sauce. If the water begins to boil before your sauce is ready, turn down the heat, but don't let the volume of the pasta water reduce by boiling off.

2. Crack the black peppercorns by putting them in a plastic bag, wrapping it in a dish cloth on a cutting board, and bashing them with a meat tenderizer or the base of a pot.

3. Heat a glug of olive oil in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the guanciale and cook slowly until it starts to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat (don't pour off the fat), add the cracked black pepper and the scallions, and set aside.

4. Bring the pasta water (back) to a boil, add the noodles, and set your timer for 2 minutes less than the shortest suggested cooking time on the package.

5. After 2 or 3 minutes, scoop out ½ cup of the pasta water and set aside to cool. Continue cooking the noodles.

6. Meanwhile, combine the egg and egg yolks in a medium bowl and whisk with a fork until nicely blended. Now, check the temperature of the oil in the skillet—it should not be actually hot, but it must still be warm to the touch. If it's too cool, put the skillet back on the burner for a few seconds.