Collecting CARTIER

As a dazzling Cartier exhibition opens at the V&A, Emma Longstaff takes a closer look at the enduring appeal of the world-famous jewellery company

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If you think of all the jewellery that's ever been made throughout millennia, some of the most breathtaking has been produced by Cartier,' says Jennifer Tonkin, UK co-head of jewellery at Bonhams. 'When you hold a historic piece by Cartier in your hand, you see that every single detail, even down to the maker's mark, is exquisitely made. The phenomenal quality of their craftsmanship and the sheer breadth of their creativity cemented their place long ago as the world's most coveted heritage jeweller.'

The firm was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the son of a metal worker and a washerwoman. As a boy, LouisFrançois was apprenticed to a jeweller; years later - as described by his descendant, Francesca Cartier Brickell, in her book, The Cartiers: The Untold Story of a Jewelry Dynasty - he borrowed money from the extended family to buy his master's workshop. This was a hugely risky undertaking. Paris was the global hub for luxury goods of all kinds, but there were plenty of other, more established, firms vying for the attention of the monied classes. What's more, France experienced six tumultuous regime changes throughout the 19th century, each seemingly more unstable than the last. As rival factions battled for supremacy, mob violence periodically erupted on the streets. Conditions were hardly optimal for the establishment of a high-end jeweller.

Despite the political and financial turmoil, the fledgling firm prospered. Cartier rose to become a prestigious premises on Rue de la Paix. At the dawn of the 20th century, the stage was set for Cartier’s international expansion.