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In the valley of plenty

April/May 2023

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go! - South Africa

Riebeek-Kasteel might only be an hour and a half from Cape Town, but it feels like a different world. Those who call it home have rooted themselves in this valley's soil, sustained by the holy trinity of art, wine and community. Here's your guide.

- KYRA TARR

In the valley of plenty

In February, at the height of summer, the Swartland is stitched together in shades of hazel and beige. The harvest has come and gone and everything seems to gasp in the blistering sun. That is, until you crest Bothmanskloof Pass and look out over the vivid greens of the Riebeek Valley.

The apparent oasis beckons as strongly as it must have in 1661, when a discovery party of European settlers sent inland by Jan van Riebeeck to scout for fertile soil first saw it from the peak of what is today called Kasteelberg.

Although Riebeek-Kasteel is relatively close to Cape Town (about 90km), it feels a world away from the city’s urgent pace and traffic-clogged roads. For this reason, the past decade has seen a wave of new residents. However, in spite of its growing popularity, you’ll still hear the town described as, “How Franschhoek used to be,” or “Similar in feel to Darling.”

The valley has been home to famous South Africans like artist Hannetjie de Clercq, journalists Max du Preez and Jacques Pauw, the Du Toit rugby family and, if you venture a little further down the timeline, Jan Smuts. Not 10 minutes into my visit, I spot world-renowned artist Louis Jansen van Vuuren at a coffee shop. (He’s promoting his new cookbook, There’s a Vegan on my Verandah.)

This hub of culture and celebrity may seem glamorous – and it is – but thankfully Riebeek-Kasteel also remains an unpretentious town that welcomes all visitors with open arms.

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