OF SEA & STONE

In a quiet corner of mainland Greece, a glamorous new resort offers access to extraordinary treasures, both natural and archaeological.

- Rachel Howard

When Petros Themelis first visited the ruins of Ancient Messene in 1986, there wasn't much to see: only a few broken columns, strewn around the vineyards and olive groves, and some of the colossal foundations of the city's fourth-century B.C. fortifications. Over the intervening millennia, whole sections of the city walls had been carted away for use in other buildings. Farmers had wrenched the metal from monuments to make tools and used broken statues and epigraphs to build walls to protect their flocks and crops. Gradually, a city that had flourished for 800 years was turned into a de facto quarry, then covered with earth and used as farmland.