Backcountry Bites

Across Alaska, lodges and outfitters are reinventing the concept of “camp food.”

- By Stephanie Vermillion

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Watching grizzlies at Alaska Bear Camp, near Lake Clark National Park; preparing the day's catch with Baranof Fishing Excursions, in Ketchikan; tempura halibut with kelp chili crisp at Tutka Bay Lodge; gardening at Camp Denali.

I NEVER EXPECTED to discover my favorite dessert in one of America’s most remote and least-visited places. But there I was in Lake Clark National Park—a 4 million-acre wilderness in southern Alaska reachable only by bush plane—enjoying a dish of berry ice cream with rhubarb gelée crowned by a six-inch web of spun sugar.