AMERICAN VINTAGE

After years of being in the shadows, Virginia winemakers are finally getting the attention they deserve. Wanda Mann takes a tasting tour.

- Wanda Mann

IF SOMEONE SHOUTED "Virginia" in the middle of a word-association game, "fine wine" might not be your first response. Even some of the state's winemakers confessed to me that they had, in the past, found many Virginian wines forgettable-or, in some cases, undrinkable. Oh, how times have changed.

Being an underestimated wine region for so many years has turned out to be one of Virginia's superpowers. If all eyes have been focused on Napa Valley or the Bordeaux region of France, Virginia's wines land somewhere in the middle, geographically and stylistically. Young winemakers, especially, have been expanding their knowledge and skills and creating an identity found only there.

The industry's growth is astounding: in the mid 1990s, there were about 50 wineries in Virginia; there are now around 300, with more than 4,000 acres under cultivation. Wine contributes more than $1.7 billion to the state's economy, not only from sales but also from visitor experiences at wineries, hotels, and restaurants. I wanted to find out if the Virginia wine story was about more than just quantity. We all know the slogan "Virginia Is for Lovers." But is it for wine lovers?

Every wine trip needs a home base, and for the first leg of my journey, mine was Salamander Middleburg (doubles from $555), less than 50 miles west of Washington, D.C. Middleburg is not just wine country; it's also the heart of Virginia's equestrian culture, and Salamander-stately and elegant, with a patina of old money-is a hymn to all things equine. The walls are lined with on-theme artwork, and guests can ride horses from the fully equipped stables. As riders strutted through the lobby in exquisite gear, I couldn't help wondering: Have I been transported to a Ralph Lauren fashion show?