THE LAST SIP OF SHOWA

A journey through Tokyo's vintage kissaten.

- WORDS & PHOTOS CK

The creak of a weathered glass door, the chime of a bell - in an instant, you've slipped through decades, entering a time capsule of Tokyo's Shōwa era (1926-1989). Tucked away in the city's shitamachi (old downtown) alleys, these kissaten - traditional Japanese coffeehouses - remain sanctuaries of slow living, where every detail whispers of a bygone age.

Inside, the air is thick with the rich aroma of dark roasted coffee and the mellow strains of jazz or classical music. Sunlight filters through lace curtains, casting soft shadows on well-worn leather booths, their deep brown patina polished smooth by generations of patrons. On the walls, wooden shelves display delicate china cups, each with its own floral motif. Behind the counter, an apron-clad barista meticulously polishes a copper siphon pot, its gleaming surface a testament to decades of devoted use.

“Irasshaimase,” comes the warm, steady greeting — a ritual unchanged for half a century.

Japan's kissaten are more than just coffee shops; they are cultural artifacts, reflecting the nation’s complex history of Western influence and domestic reinvention. Born in the Meiji era (1868-1912), as Japan opened to the world, they flourished in the mid-20th century, becoming hubs for artists, writers, and intellectuals. Unlike today’s sleek cafés - with their single-origin pour-overs and minimalist aesthetics, kissaten prioritise atmosphere and tradition. Here, coffee is brewed slowly, often with a cloth filter, and served in delicate porcelain alongside a glass of water and a tiny spoon.

For travellers seeking the ‘real’ Tokyo, beyond neon and bullet trains, these cafés are essential stops. After all, some flavours can't be replicated, only preserved.

310.COFFEE: Porcelain, perfection & the pursuit of Tokyo's ideal cup