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Is that hairy crab you ordered the real deal?

November 03, 2024

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The Straits Times

The prized crustacean is in season, with most restaurants getting their produce from Yangcheng Lake or Lake Tai in China

- Hedy Khoo

Is that hairy crab you ordered the real deal?

Hairy crabs are back in season, and fans of the prized crustaceans can enjoy them at selected Chinese restaurants in November, with several offering them till December.

Also known as Chinese mitten crab because of its fuzzy claws which resemble mittens, the seasonal delicacy is prized for its rich, buttery and slightly briny roe with a luxurious mouthfeel. Its sweet, delicate meat is also more refined in flavour compared with the more common mud or flower crabs.

Prices range from $88++ each for Traditional Steamed Hairy Crab at Li Bai Cantonese Restaurant to $148++ for Baked Hairy Crab with Lemongrass served with Osmanthus and Wolfberry Ginger Tea at Yi by Jereme Leung.

With the seasonal delicacy being sold at premium prices, how can diners be sure that the hirsute crustaceans being served up are the real deal?

Most restaurants serving hairy crab say they source them from Yangcheng Lake and Lake Tai, also known as Lake Taihu, in the Jiangsu province.

Yangcheng Lake, in particular, is said to be the gold standard source of the prized delicacy.

Cantonese restaurant Madame Fan's executive Chinese chef Pak Chee Yit, 40, says the pristine, mineral-rich waters of Yangcheng Lake provide the ideal environment for raising hairy crabs, resulting in delicate, sweet meat and rich, buttery roe.

The restaurant's Salt-Baked Hairy Crab and Steamed Hairy Crab with Perilla Leaf are priced at $88++ each.

Chef Pak adds: "Knowing the origin of the hairy crabs is important, as customers expect transparency and the assurance that they are enjoying the finest quality."

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