Craft and Credibility

When a Milan runway becomes the unlikely stage for Kolhapur's traditional leather sandals, it reveals more than just a fleeting fashion statement — it exposes the paradox at the heart of how India values its own craftsmanship.

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For generations, artisans in Kolhapur, many from Dalit communities, have quietly sustained an 800-year-old tradition of making Kolhapuri chappals — durable, beautifully braided, and completely handmade. These sandals were never meant for the catwalk. They were built for everyday life, molded by weather, faith, and the rhythm of small-town streets. But like many crafts rooted in caste-based labour, they suffered from indifference, if not outright neglect. Their makers remained invisible, and their work underpaid and underacknowledged. Then came Prada's Spring/Summer 2026 collection, showcasing a sandal unmistakably similar to the Kolhapuri. The brand offered no initial credit. Yet ironically, it was this act of cultural appropriation that reignited interest in the very craft it had borrowed from. Online outrage surged. Globa