Kolhapuris get Prada makeover at Rs 1.2 L: Where's the credit, fume activists as label acknowledges 'inspiration'

THE humble kolhapuri, style statement for affordable ethnic elegance and simply staple wear for many, catapulted to the rarefied runways of Milan with Prada rebranding the handcrafted chappal “leather flat sandals” at Rs 1.2 lakh. The outrage was instant and intense.

- MANIK GUPTA

That the Gl-tagged footwear, a symbol of Indian craft that goes back centuries was appropriated by the Italian luxury label which featured it in Spring/Summer 2026 show, led to a massive debate on cultural theft and giving artisans their rightful due.

"I am deeply annoyed and disgusted by the way Prada has appropriated something deeply Indian and traditional -- without giving any recognition to the craftspeople or the culture it comes from. This is a metaphor for how we in India often undervalue our own heritage, dismissing it as primitive or merely "handicraft," while the world repackages it as luxury," designer and activist Laila Tyabji, who has worked with craftspersons for decades, told PTI.

"It's time we acknowledged that India holds extraordinary skills and knowledge systems. We must recognise, protect, and proudly present them to the world-before others steal and sell our identity back to us," the Dastkar chairperson added.

Several days later, as the debate escalated in India, Prada acknowledged the connection and said the design is “inspired” by the Indian handcrafted footwear. It said the sandal featured in the men's 2026 fashion show is still at the design stage and none of the pieces worn by models on the ramp are confirmed to be commercialised.