MILAN: THE ART OF REINVENTION

Three of the major Italian cities — Rome, Florence and Milan — are like siblings that share a common DNA, yet are remarkably different. That DNA is art, but while Rome is steeped in art both ancient and new, and Florence is a jewel box crammed with Renaissance art, Milan has mastered the art of reinvention. Compared to structures in Rome and Florence that are awash with a warm palette of siennas, mustards, pumpkin and brick, the clear northern light of Milan shines down on buildings of cool grays. But don’t think this city, which is the financial center of Italy, is a dreary industrial hub. Ever finding ways to reinvent itself, stylish skyscrapers have

- VICKY VELOSO-BARRERA

Piadinas made of flatbreads containing all sorts of fillings can be found all over Milan.

Reinventing itself as the fashion capital of Italy in 1958, Milan is the financial center of Italy. But don’t think of it as a dreary industrial hub.

risen, including the Bosco Verticale which incorporates 20 hectares of vertical gardens into its two towers. In a city that reinvented itself as the fashion capital of Italy in 1958, it’s only fitting that other structures like the sleek Pirelli building, the brooding Torre Velasca and those rising in the CityLife district make a statement. The combination of the old and new, exemplified even by the tram system where old and new trams run side by side, is a heady mix.

For me and my sister Letlet, Milan was an Italian city indispensable in any fashion itinerary. Back in the ‘80s, when we were traveling for work, Milan meant joyful days taking in the sight of that magnificent cathedral and equally impressive Galleria Vittorio Emmanuel every day. It meant all our other hours hanging out in the Via Montenapoleone and its side streets, collectively known as the Quadrilatero della Moda. It meant having lunch at the Ristorante Bagutta, on the Via Bagutta, because Harper's Bazaar reported that it was Giorgio Armani’s favorite. But no matter how often we ate at Ristorante Bagutta, now sadly shuttered, we never spotted my favorite designer.

Visiting now with my family instead of my sister, the gothic Duomo is as beautiful as ever and great to photograph in any kind of light. The huge plaza is a gathering place for groups of students, tourists, peaceful protestors and couples in all their wedding finery having photo shoots. Our apartment was conveniently located near the cathedral where, for the first time, I took a lift to the top to view the city skyline through its gothic spires.