MILESTONES IN A MESS MENU

One of the oldest messes in Chennai, Rayar's Mess has stood the test of time, and continues to be a favourite for foodies

- SONU M KOTHARI

AS heavy clouds took on a threatening shape, waiting to empty themselves, a group of youngsters gathered on the narrow Arundale Street, Mylapore. Listening to the bits of their conversation, it was clear that they were returning after a "semma" cricket match. They crossed houses painted in white, orange and brown. At one of the house's entryways, a man was sitting, sipping hot coffee from a davara set as rainwater started seeping through the walls of the building.

A blue colour name board hanging above the door frame reads 'Rayar's Mess' in Tamil and English. The building has stood the test of time-the faded yellow walls on the outside, a rusting black gate at the entrance, and huge blue-coloured plastic drums stored with water for people to wash their hands and feet as they entered.

The place carries a strong aroma of spices, tanginess, and sweetness.

Upon entering the hallway, Kumar, one of the owners of the mess, folds his hands and welcomes customers in. They are then led to the dining area which has four tables with four plastic chairs each. Inside there is a small kitchen where a cooker whistle blows and two wet grinders churn idli/dosai batter for their special menu.

Spread across 500 sq. ft, this is the second location of the mess.

Until 1992, the mess was on Kutchery Road, but it shifted to the present location Arundale Street some years back.