A treasure trove of history

As Karaikudi gets its first museum dedicated to Chettinad jewellery, we give you a sneak peek of the same and more

- Apurva P

LIFE DOESN'T HURRY in Karaikudi. It unfolds through quiet conversations over brass tumblers of filter coffee, through the rustle of saris drying in the courtyard breeze, and through the distant clang of temple bells that have rung for centuries. Every corner seems to hum with history, from the red dust rising beneath your feet to the carved wooden doors that guard ancestral homes.

We arrived one golden afternoon at this heritage home. Our first stop was for lunch at Annalakshmi, where we sat around a banana leaf spread that was a love letter to Chettinad's culinary soul. The Chettinad delicacies arrived at our table (or rather leaves) one after the other. These included bottle gourd koottu, keerai masiyal (spinach-based), and vazha poo vadai (banana plant vadai) apart from the warm breads and rice. We ended the meal in true Chettinad fashion with banana and betel leaf.

We checked in soon after to The Bangala, an institution in itself. A relic of heritage and hospitality, The Bangala made us fall in love with it at first sight. Bougainvillea poured over the garden walls in a pink profusion, while underfoot, cool Athangudi tiles shimmered with muted colours. The rooms we stayed in were equally impressive-steeped in old-world charm. The wooden furniture, starched linen, a balcony overlooking the garden and that wonderful stillness that reminded us of our ancestral homes.

Our evening began with a drive to Pillaiyarpatti Temple, one of Tamil Nadu's oldest rock-cut shrines. The journey there, with cashew trees flanking both sides of the road and the red soil glowing beneath them.

Upon entering the temple, we found the significance behind the deity interesting. A natural stone sculpture of Vinayakar that changes hues through the day, appearing dark in the morning and golden by sunset. Every inch of the temple speaks of meticulous craftsmanship: delicate carvings, natural vegetable dyes, and stone pillars worn smooth by centuries of touch.