'Doing less isn't necessarily easier': Prada's stripped-back mix of military and pastels

Miuccia Prada may argue her collections are not a response to the global political landscape. But in keeping with the theme for her spring/summer 2026 menswear collection shown in Milan on Sunday, there may be a change of tone.

- Scarlett Conlon

The show notes described the collection as representing "a shift of attitude - dismantling of meaning and dismantling power".

As the designer spoke about "the nastiness in the world", her co-creative director, Raf Simons, said the pair "wanted to bring... something that makes you feel... positive and balanced".

The collection, displayed at the Deposito show space at Fondazione Prada, emphasised that point. Precision-pressed shirting with hand-drawn wave illustrations, khaki knitwear with fringed hems, utilitarian-grey tailoring paired with tiny matching shorts and striped tracksuits styled with thonged sandals suggested individuality over conformity.

Accessories including grey wash bags, backpacks with multiple compartments as well as white canvas plimsolls - items with sartorial origins in military survival gear - were countered with raffia cloche hats and a pastel palette that suggested escapism rather than restraint.