City of Delight Buzz and cynicism go hand in hand as world awaits the first post-Covid Olympics

In the late hours of the final Friday before the Olympic Games begin in Paris, a young waiter named Anatole closed up his brasserie for the night in the shadow of the Sainte-Chapelle by the Seine.

- Tumaini Carayol

Under regular circumstances, the area would be flooded with tourists and potential customers crossing over the river to catch a glimpse of the famed Cathédrale Notre Dame, but this time the brasserie and the surrounding area were empty. In the rare absence of humans, dozens of rats roamed the streets all night.

With less than a week to go until the Olympics officially open, areas directly surrounding the Seine have practically been locked down. Only those with a "Games Pass" QR code on their phone or an Olympic accreditation are allowed to cross certain parts of the river, meaning pedestrians are constantly turned away. The anti-terrorism security perimeter (SILT) will be in place until after the opening ceremony, which takes place on Friday over the Seine.

For Anatole, that means carrying on as usual even though business is down by more than 80% and tips are nonexistent. The modest flower market across the square, the 19-year-old noted, is in far worse shape for the week. Various booksellers and marketeers who normally do business by the Seine have also been removed despite their protests. The hope is that when the world finally arrives at their doorstep, the area will open up and business will bloom again.