A city of two massacres War leaves deep scars in Geneina

Geneina, the capital of West Darfur state in Sudan, can feel like two cities in one. There are mass graves, abandoned armoured vehicles and homeless children, but also new restaurants, bustling markets and factory-fresh Toyotas, nicknamed Kenjcanjia - meaning stolen in the local dialect- owing to their lack of registration plates.

- Zeinab Mohammed Salih

Since war broke out between the army and the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces (RSF) in April last year, the city has witnessed two major massacres. Decomposing bodies lay out on the streets for up to 10 days on both occasions, their flesh eaten by dogs and chickens. Residues from the bodies of the dead remain even now, stepped over by people as they go about their daily business.

Some districts in the centre of the city, where people displaced by conflict elsewhere in Darfur used to congregate in government buildings, have all but been abandoned. Buildings bear scorch marks and bullet holes on their walls from the fighting.

For two months from mid-April and then again for a week in early November, Geneina was convulsed by fighting that rapidly developed along tribal lines, pitting Masalit and other non-Arab people in support of the army against the RSF and allied Arab militia.