Where the Rifle Rules

COCAINE CANYON: INSIDE COLOMBIA'S GUERRILLA-RUN MICROSTATE

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Rug-running guerrillas have repelled military efforts to retake a slice of southwest Colombia – a virtual microstate where the rifle rules. No one enters or leaves without the guerrillas’ say-so; state-issued IDs are worthless and cocaine production is not just tolerated, but encouraged.

Welcome to Micay Canyon, a lush mountain-fringed valley in southwest Colombia where the self-styled "Estado Mayor Central" are the law.

On dirt roads leading into the valley, rifle-wielding rebels – some in camouflage, some in civilian clothes – stop every bike, car, or truck trying to enter.

The men at the checkpoints demand to see a rebel-issued ID card, which must be renewed every year and also serves as an entry permit.

Outsiders are rarely allowed access. But once through the barricades, Micay has the trappings of a state within a state.