The forgotten jar: why pickle no longer sits at our table

JUST north of Durban lies KwaZulu-Natal’s Gucci Coastline where luxury lounges on the very soil once soaked with the sweat and sacrifice of Indian indentured labourers, who didn’t come for beachside cocktails but to break their backs in sugar cane fields.

- YOGIN DEVAN

Here we find the bedroom communities of uMhlanga, Izinga, Brettenwood, Zululami Sibaya, Ballito, and a well-manicured handful of other similar areas.

I say “bedroom” because the majority of residents sleep here but commute elsewhere for work. Now this is the Moët & Chandon Crescent where the bubbles flow and the bills never stop; the Range Rover Riviera where every pothole, ignored by the municipal roads department, is dodged in style; and the Botox Bay Area where smooth waves mean smoother foreheads.

Nestled in these prestigious precincts are haute cuisine sanctuaries that cater to the discerning palates of the well-heeled and worldly with an opulent blend of artistry and flavour.

The air in these restaurants is seasoned with ego and there are some who dine there, not for the food, but for the chance to be seen chewing in R10 000 outfits.

The menus boast a symphony of seasonal ingredients and avant-garde technique. Flaky pastry filled with truffle-scented mushrooms and goat cheese; grilled asparagus with miso hollandaise; duck breast with blackberry reduction; rich shellfish broth with cognac, cream and lobster medallions; and lamb loin with pistachio crust. Just some of the meals curated by Michelin-starred chefs.

Meanwhile, on the dining table of a modest house in another area north of Durban — Phoenix, Verulam or Tongaat — there sits a steaming plate of fluffy rice, gently soaked in golden dhal and accompanied by red potato curry. Something is missing. Then a spoonful of mango pickle is added on the side. Suddenly, the dish sings and moves to another level, outshining the pomp of a plush restaurant's finest fare.

The humble pickle’s tangy punch, infused with mustard seeds, fenugreek, chilli and oil, cuts through the mellow richness of the dhal. Each mouthful becomes a dance of flavours — sour, salty and fiery - all at once. Yes, dhal and rice is soul food. But with mango pickle? It’s soul food with swagger.