Ritu Kumar: the doyenne of Indian fashion

Designer Ritu Kumar talks about her constant fascination with textiles, the changing customer, and her new book

- Pooja Singh

From the elegance of her living room, where textures and prints blend seamlessly, to her favourite book—Jane Austen’s Pride And Prejudice, which she has read 16-17 times—classic is is the word that best describes Ritu Kumar’s taste. It reflects in everything she does.

Her recent India Couture Week showcase, which marked her return to the Delhi runway after close to a decade, was a reminder of what she represents in the world of fashion: clothes that are classic as well as timeless. Beneath the oversized bows and sheer capes, the septuagenarian designer showcased favourite silhouettes of the lehnga and salwar-kurta that were attractive enough for both the loyalist and the new customer.

“I enjoy doing things that I do with textiles. I just like working on prints and handblocks,” says Kumar, who was awarded the Padma Shri in 2013.

Over six decades, Kumar’s designs have retained their identity, in prints, handblocks and embroidery rooted in India’s weaving and design traditions. Ritu Kumar, arguably India’s first fashion house, now includes Label Ritu Kumar (boho-chic Indo-Western), Ri-Ritu Kumar (bridal couture), aarké Ritu Kumar (everyday clothing), Ritu Kumar Home (home furnishings) and Ritu Kumar (daily and semi-formal ethnic wear). In 2021, Reliance Retail Ventures Ltd acquired a 52% stake in the Ritu Kumar brand; the size of the deal wasn’t disclosed.

The Ritu Kumar brands have over 100 stores in India. “We are growing, for sure, but I don’t have the details. I am on the creative side of things,” says Kumar. “You can ask my team.” The team declined to share numbers.