At Yamazato's Sushi Counter, Chef Sato serves sushi with heart

International Sushi Day inspires a closer look at the quiet mastery of Hotel Okura Manila's itamae

- FELICIANO RODRIGUEZ III

The first thing you notice is the quiet. There's no clatter, no rush. Only the soft sound of a knife against the board and the faint sizzle as a flame briefly kisses a piece of fish. And the man behind the counter, Chef Ikuma Sato, bows before his tools, before the ingredients, before the day begins.

At Yamazato, the Japanese fine-dining restaurant of Hotel Okura Manila at Newport World Resorts, tradition speaks softly but firmly. The Sushi Counter is a stage, and Chef Ikuma is its quiet master. In Japan, such a chef is called an itamae. The word means "in front of the board." It refers to the craftsman who not only prepares sushi with precision but also serves and guides the guest. An itamae shapes the food and the flow of the meal, creating an encounter that is as personal as it is delicious.

Yesterday, the world marked International Sushi Day. Today, we look back at a recent lunch at this counter. It was a timely celebration of a centuries-old craft and the man who brings it to life piece by piece.