Searching your Seoul

South Korea has become a cultural powerhouse, and MARIA BRESLIN finds out why on a fascinating rail tour with a trip to its sprawling capital, taking in markets, music, art and temples

- MARIA BRESLIN

Namdaemun Market, Seoul SERENADED Maria with Seok In Mo FOODIE HEAVEN Seoul markets

It's a Friday night I won't forget. Perched on my knee is a West End wannabe belting out a hit from The Rocky Horror Show. Just minutes ago Seok In Mo was serving us beer at the Showflix bar in Seoul's hip Sindang district. Now he's rocking stockings, suspenders and snug shorts as he serenades me.

South Korea is having its moment. K-pop, K-beauty, K-drama, K-food - it seems the world has gone K-crazy. KPop Demon Hunters dominated summer, snail serum is becoming a beauty staple and many Brits love a bibimbap.

Capital Seoul is the first port of call on our rail tour by travel specialist InsideAsia. We're at the Sindang theatre bar with InsideAsia guide Meggie Yu, who is determined to show us a good time. Showflix's waiting staff are all musical theatre hopefuls and, while the food may be average, the talent is anything but.

For those who want to venture off the beaten path, hiring a guide helps - especially when it's Jitse Jager, a 6ft 8in Dutchman who stands out in the crowd as we wind our way through the streets of Seongsu-dong. Dubbed the Brooklyn of Seoul, this former industrial district is now a merry maze of warehouse cafés, galleries and boutique shops. We kick-start the day with a coffee at Oude Bakery while a leisurely stroll takes us past a popup Labubu shop and a Christian Dior store, suggesting gentrification is well under way.