The slow magic of Kyoto: Old Japan, new discoveries
September 24, 2025
|Daily FT
JAPAN is endlessly fascinating to me, a country that wears its heritage with complete authenticity while simultaneously shaping the future.
Itis a seamless paradox — centuries-old traditions coexisting with innovations that feel very futuristic. Nowhere does Japan ilustrate this balance more clearly than Kyoto. The citys aliving archive, where restaurants with two hundred years of history stand alongside sleek museums dedicated to gaming and technology. Itis at once vibrant and contemplative, a place where you can move from a morning of temple gardens and tea ceremonies to an afternoon immersed in contemporary art or design. I spent over week exploring Kyoto, and | would recommend at least that amount of time—long enough to look beyond the surface, to truly absorb the city that rewards patience and curiosity.
Where to stay
I stayed in a ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn) for the first few nights—an experience everyone should try at least once. Kyoto Ryokan Hirashin, tucked away on a quiet street, felt ike stepping into another time. Tatami mats hushed my steps, paper doors slid open to simple elegance, and kimono-style robes waited to be worn for dinner in the room. Tradition ran through everything—from the onsen bath in the basement to the futon mattresses and a breakfast that felt like a ceremony: steaming miso, pickled vegetables, grilled fish kissed with smoke. Staying ina ryokan is, in many ways, living and breathing Kyoto itself.
For the rest of my stay, I moved to something more modern: Mitsui Garden Hotel Kyoto Shijo, a rare find that's both central and affordable. Step outside and you're within reach of Shijo-Karasuma and Shijo-Kawaramachi, buzzing with markets, cafés, and late-night bars. It's a location that makes exploring efforless—and unlike many Japanese hotels, the rooms are spacious, which in Kyoto feels like striking gold.
What to see and do
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