Food for Thought

Americans are increasing their protein intake, but at what cost to the sustainable food movement?

- by KATHERINE FUNG

AMERICANS ARE HUNGRIER THAN ever for protein, with more than half upping their intake in recent years—raising questions for climate activists over the future of sustainable food.

Last year, around 6 in 10 Americans boosted their consumption of the macronutrient, according to an April report from agricultural giant Cargill. This seems to have translated into a rise in meat intake: The research found 75 percent of Americans include animal protein in their evening meals, and 74 percent consider meat an important part of their diet.

“The biggest risk right now is that—in this protein craze—people think ‘meat’ when they hear ‘protein,” Eve Turow-Paul, executive director of Food for Climate League, told Newsweek.

Nearly 90 percent of U.S. adults inaccurately believe it’s important to eat animal products to get adequate protein, a March survey from the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine and Morning Consult found. More than 1 in 5 do not think it’s possible to build muscle on a plant-based diet.

“The danger of this moment is that the people who control what goes onto menus and what food is served will make the same assumption that because there’s a protein movement, people just want meat,” said Turow-Paul, whose Chicago-based nonprofit aims to make climate-smart food choices the norm. Speaking at a Climate Week NYC event hosted by Food Tank in late September, Turow-Paul said Food for Climate League research has found that consumers want more diverse and plant-based protein options.

A separate July survey by the International Food Information Council found that even though meat/poultry was the most popular protein source, for 65 percent of respondents. Beans, peas and lentils were also among preferred options (40 percent).