Wheys And Means

Beth McHugh visits a former POW camp in Highland Perthshire, where Strathearn Cheese crafts flavours as rich as the landscape

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THE last remaining Scottish prisoner of war camp seems an unlikely place to find a tiny, charming cheese factory. Yet, nestled by the foot of the Aberuchill Hills in Highland Perthshire, a mile from Comrie, Strathearn Cheese is lovingly made by a two-person team in Cultybraggan Camp.

On a wild day of rain showers, unruly wind and short segments of splitting sunshine, my mum and I made the drive along breathtaking country roads to this vibrant community space. As we descended the steep road into the camp, a bright rainbow split the sky in two. I was eager to find the pot of cheese at the end of it.

Not really knowing what to expect, I was delighted by the well-maintained Nissen shelters and the variety of uses they had been put to. Some were self-catering accommodation, offering a peaceful respite amongst the rugged hills. Others had become homes to a café, a museum and numerous small businesses.

We found Strathearn Cheese next door to the intoxicating scent of sourdough emanating from Wild Hearth Bakery – a most delightful duo.

Owner Ben greeted us at the door with a smile, hairnets and blue shoe covers, before beckoning us in.

Expert cheese-maker Kirsty McCabe was already hard at work. They had started making cheese at around 8.30 that morning, and when we arrived at 1pm the vat was developing curds.

“There aren’t a lot of cheese-makers in Scotland,” Ben said. “There are only 25 to 30.”