Force of Nature

Roots run deep for flower child and emerging Chinese designer Susan Fang, whose Milan Fashion Week debut with Dolce & Gabbana was a love letter to her mother

- Madeleine Mak

Hyperfeminine, delicate and ethereal—these are all adjectives that come to mind when you see a Susan Fang garment. Dig deeper into what's behind the Chinese designer's designs, marked by pastel shades, light and airy silhouettes and organic motifs, however, and you uncover a richer story of family and technical innovation.

Consider her signature Air Weave technique. Instead of cutting textiles such as organza and tulle according to a garment pattern or draping them on a mannequin, Fang’s approach minimises waste by cutting strips of fabric and stitching them together with mathematical precision to create a 3D grid-like effect on dresses and skirts. Fang's mother helped to develop this pioneering technique, and the pair continue to collaborate closely to bring each collection to life. “[My mother] was the first person to understand the complex Air Weave technique,” Fang tells Tatler. “Her love for nature and craft, and her wise yet simple [investment of] energy [into] enjoying the moment is at the core of our brand.”

Adding to the brand's family affair is Fang’s husband Orelio De Jonghe, who serves as the director of accessories and footwear. The couple harness 3D-printing technologies to create handbags made from unconventional materials such as crystal resin, shaped to emulate chrysanthemums and honeycomb, as well as signature avant-garde showpieces that resemble dandelions. “Pushing the boundaries of garment construction is essential to our brand, [as is] merging tradition with innovation to create emotionally resonant pieces,” Fang says.