At Ease

Many of spring's most compelling clothes are rendered in shades of khaki. As stylist Tom Stubbs discovers, the range of colours is surprisingly simple to mix.

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ON A RECENT trip to Portugal, I found myself combining wide-leg pleated denim trousers, voluminous vintage silk parachute shirts from Katharine Hamnett, and Yuri & Yuri's delicate crochet knits—all in a spectrum of khaki hues, from dull green to brownish yellow. To my surprise, they blended together effortlessly. Turns out, so did a tan.

Although the prevalence of khaki—a term derived from the Persian word for 'dusty'—is an exemplar of the military's influence on menswear, its colour isn't as precisely defined as our friends in the armed forces might prefer. That fluidity may be why a variety of colours have popped up in unexpected forms this season, from nuanced tailoring and fine Savile Row suits to techy sports gear and cool outerwear. In an uncertain world, the reliable compatibility of this palette is turning khaki—or fawn, straw, fossil or whatever you call it—into the new black.