The Intimate Plate

Micro kitchens with bold flavours and ideas are reshaping the world of fine dining through small, chef-led dining experiences.

- Amin Ali

At Papa's in Mumbai, one of India's finest chefs, Hussain Shahzad, isn't hidden in the kitchen; he's waiting for you at the table.

You're in his zone, part of his process. You hear every exchange with his team, watch each dish come alive step by step, and see the plating unfold right under your nose. And yet, what finally lands on your plate is always a surprise.

The explanations, the tension and the banter—each moment pulls you deeper into Shahzad's mind. You marvel not just at what's on the plate, but at how it was imagined in the first place. Surrounded by just a handful of fellow diners, you realise you're not just eating dinner. You're witnessing a performance, and you're part of the cast.

Papa's is part of a quiet revolution reshaping luxury dining in India. A new wave of chef-driven micro-diners, typically seating just 10 to 20 guests, is redefining what it means to dine out. These aren't just restaurants; they're intimate stages where food, craft and storytelling collide.

Experience is the Course

Modern Indian diners, particularly the well-travelled and food-conscious, are seeking more than just good food. They want a connection with the chef, the kitchen, the ingredients and the story. "It's the sense of exclusivity that appeals to diners," says Shahzad, executive chef at Hunger Inc., which operates Mumbai's Papa's.

"They enjoy being in the chef's hands, not having to make decisions. It's fun, but also a huge responsibility. When someone devotes three hours of their life to you, it has to count."

At Papa's, the evening unfolds like a well-scripted play: drinks at the bar, a 12-course tasting menu in full view of the kitchen and a dining room that doubles as a stage. For Shahzad, it's as personal as it gets: "It's like throwing a party in your own kitchen."