Valley of Courage

They came to guide tourists, not save lives. But when terror struck Baisaran hill, Pahalgam's pony-wallahs—unarmed, untrained, undeterred—stepped in to the rescue

- Kaleem Geelani

Waheed Ahmad Wani began in 2007 with just a pony and a purpose—ferrying pilgrims up the rugged paths of Pahalgam, Kashmir, during the annual Amarnath Yatra. As the region's lush green meadows and meandering rivers began drawing tourists in greater numbers, his seasonal hustle turned into a full-time calling, and he began offering rides through the valley's meadows and forests all year round. Over time, his role expanded beyond the trail. Driven by a deep sense of social responsibility, Wani began offering vital assistance to underprivileged families, advocating for local issues, and forging strong ties with the administration. His leadership soon saw him rise from president to general secretary of the local pony association, representing nearly 5,000 pony-walas, guides, and all-terrain vehicle (ATV) operators since 2019.

IN NEARLY 20 YEARS, Wani had weathered many challenges, but nothing remotely prepared him for the events of 22 April this year—the day terror struck the picturesque meadows of Baisaran hilltop. Twenty-five tourists and a fellow pony operator were killed in a brutal attack that shook the nation to its core. At the time, the 39-year-old was in Ganishbal, three kilometres away, attending a condolence gathering for a relative. He remembers the moment clearly—2:36 p.m.—when his phone rang. On the line was a local policeman, his voice urgent: “Waheed sahab, do you know what’s happened in Baisaran?” A wave of dread set in. Wani stepped out, heart pounding, and dialled one contact after another, trying to piece together what was going on. But none of the calls went through.