Shaping Diversity

As NorBlack NorWhite turns 16, Amrit Kumar reflects on the journey through the evolution of identity, intention, and ideology.

- Words by SHIVPRIYA BAJPAI

We never called ourselves designers. Mriga [Kapadiya] and I always say we're artists. And that's how we navigate our practice with NorBlack NorWhite (NBNW)," Amrit Kumar, one half of NBNW, tells me as we are seated across from each other at the brand's Dhan Mill Compound store and workshop in Delhi. The founders' creative practice, one intended to operate beyond the workings of a traditional brand, turns 'sweet 16' this year, evolving into a broader cultural shift today. The said shift has increasingly embraced homegrown craft, individuality, and self-expression through the course of their blooming friendship in Toronto, returning to India together, digging deeper into their roots, learning about old-school textiles, and reinterpreting traditions into fresh formats.

Some may associate NBNW with their signature tie-dye iterations, eclectic details, while others can't get enough of the iconic 'Aunty' tees, ikkat reimagined through contemporary silhouettes, embellished socks, 'Protect Your Spirit' bindis, or the Madras check accessories—it's safe to say we all have our NBNW favourites. Kapadiya and Kumar attribute every sense of their collective achievement to the community they have built over time. What started as a curious exploration into the grey space of culture from a 300 sq ft home studio in Mumbai between 2010 and 2016 has only levelled up to multiples. From runway debut at Lakmé Fashion Week in 2016, international popups across Dubai, Canada, and Brooklyn, to dynamic creative collaborations, and launching the first flagship store in New Delhi's Dhan Mill compound in 2023. But Mumbai, or Bombay (as Kumar likes to refer to the city), holds a special place in her heart. "I tell everybody it's my favourite city in the whole wide world.