PLUMS AND THEIR KIN Perfect for preserving

From bottled fruit and spiced chutneys to sharp vinegars and rustic cakes, plums, damsons, gages and mirabelles offer endless ways to stock the store cupboard. Rob Smith shares his favourite recipes and traditions for keeping these autumn treasures well into winter

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When it comes to fruit worth preserving, plums and their close cousins have long earned their place in the kitchen. There is more variety than many expect. Plums are the most familiar, ranging from varieties like Marjorie's Seedling to the rosy-red Victoria, through to golden dessert types, all with juicy, sweet flesh that is perfect for baking, stewing or bottling. Damsons are smaller, darker, and far more tart, with a strong flavour that shines in chutneys and fruit gins. Gages are usually green or amber, with a honeyed taste and smooth texture that makes them a treat straight from the tree or turned into jam. Then there are mirabelles, those tiny golden fruits found in French hedgerows, ideal for tarts, compotes or steeped in spirits.

Preserving these fruits has deep roots across the world. In Eastern Europe, plums are the soul of slivovitz, a strong homemade brandy sipped at weddings, funerals and family gatherings. The fruit is fermented and distilled with care, turning a humble harvest into a powerful drink that captures the warmth of late summer.

Here in Britain, sloe gin is the classic seasonal ritual, though damson gin is a cherished variation in some households. The fruit is steeped in gin for a few months, with sugar added at the start or later, depending on the maker's preference. The result is a rich, ruby drink that pours beautifully beside a wood fire in December.

In northern India, plums take on savoury spice. They are cooked into chutneys with ginger, mustard seeds, chilli and vinegar, creating a thick, glossy preserve that pairs wonderfully with grilled meats or cheese. Over in China, pickled plums are a common sight, preserved in vinegar and rock sugar. The fruit is eaten as a tangy treat, but the infused vinegar is just as useful. Mixed with a splash of honey and sparkling water, it becomes a refreshing drink that lifts the spirits after a day in the garden.