Lowcountry Treasures

Sweet brown shrimp are at the heart of Gullah Geechee summers.

- By Amethyst Ganaway

IN THE SALTY WATERS OF THE LOWCOUNTRY, there’s an endless amount of fresh seafood: whiting, redfish, shark, blue crab, trout, porgy, conch, and, of course, sweet, plump shrimp. Some think that all the shrimp found along our coastlines and salt marshes tastes the same, but a true Lowcountrian will tell you that the small brown “swimps” or “skrimp” found hiding near the marsh grass are best.

When I was growing up in Charleston, my grandma fried brown shrimp every Friday. I learned early how to order them at our local seafood markets. The clerk would ask, “How you want these shrimp?” I’d stand on my tippy-toes and respond the way my Granny would—with a sure and firm “Can I have the heads and shells still on?” and whatever quantity we would need.