'Spain deserves more dynamism, more ambition, more recognition'

Rioja, 1991. Priorat, 2001. These are the moments the two wine regions rose from the status of DO (denominación de origen) to DOCa (denominació d'origen qualificada, or DOQ: denominació d’origen qualificada in Catalan). It’s etched on the memory of every Spanish sommelier. They were hailed as milestones, proof that Spain's wine hierarchy could evolve. But more than 20 years later, one can’t help asking: has it, really?

- FERRAN CENTELLES

Since 2001, no other Spanish region has joined Rioja and Priorat at the summit. Are we to believe that Jerez, Montilla-Moriles, Ribera del Duero, Bierzo, Rías Baixas or Valdeorras are somehow unworthy? Is Spain condemned to remain the ‘country of two DOCas' for ever? Surely not. The country’s heritage (and wines) tell a richer story - one that deserves broader recognition.

I’m not calling for an Italian-style avalanche - Italy flaunts 78 DOCGs, almost too many to count - but surely Spain’s wine landscape, with its astonishing quality, diversity and evolution over decades, merits more than two. And yet nothing moves. Why? The answer, I’m afraid, is neither in the vineyards nor the bottles, but in the bureaucracy.