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TECHNICAL AESTHETICS

Issue 84

|

WOW Singapore

From 20-metre gold wire ballets to photorealistic wood marquetry, Patek Philippe’s latest Haut Artisanat showcase defies industrial logic, as it should do. We pick out some highlights from the 65-piece Rare Handcrafts creations

- WORDS KEN KE

TECHNICAL AESTHETICS

We often think it a pity that watches are so small.

It is so much easier to understand the compelling power of metiers d'art with just a bit of scale - you do not need Big Ben here, just something poster-size will do. Even pocket watches provide the requisite real estate, especially those with hinged cases. As it happens, there is a showcase of the mechanical arts that happens every year, and though it is related to Watches and Wonders Geneva, it exists outside that world.

While the watchmaking world typically descends upon Geneva in April to dissect the latest steel sports watches or technical advances in timekeeping, Patek Philippe quietly prepares a parallel universe at its historic Rue du Rhône Salons. Here, the Rare Handcrafts 2026 collection is unveiled, a 65-piece symphony of enamel, engraving, and marquetry that defies the industrial logic of the 21st century.

These are not your typical commercial novelties. You cannot simply walk into a boutique and order a Reference 5738/50G Northern Pintail with a wood marquetry dial. While one might argue that one does not simply rock up to a Patek Philippe boutique and expect to buy anything one wants, as if it was merely stationery, the Rare Handcrafts pieces stand further apart.

These are the living spirits of Geneva's crafting past, maintained in the present by the steady hands of artisans with the aid of machines from the time of the Enlightenment. If that sounds wild, you do not know the half of it because such machinery is not made by any contemporary producer; they too have to be restored to life. Yet, this year, the divide between these artistic, well, “artifacts” and the core collection — built with the aid of CAD and CNC machines — has been bridged by a singular mechanical marvel: the Reference 5249R-001 The Crow and the Fox.

The Fable on the Wrist

المزيد من القصص من WOW Singapore

WOW Singapore

WOW Singapore

CHALLENGE ACCEPTED

Norqain VP Tobias Küffer on the unstoppable rise of the brand and its new place in the firmament of Swiss watchmaking

time to read

7 mins

Issue 84

WOW Singapore

WOW Singapore

POP MART

The Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop has brought the hype - and questions

time to read

1 min

Issue 84

WOW Singapore

WOW Singapore

SOUL GEAR TRAIN

In a world of assembly lines and financial investments, Blancpain anchors itself in the realm of passion. By entrusting every Ref. 15GSQ to the hands of a single watchmaker, President and CEO Marc A. Hayek proves that the ultimate metric of a grand complication is not its part count, but its ability to make the wearer smile

time to read

6 mins

Issue 84

WOW Singapore

WOW Singapore

LOUIS VUITTON ESCALE RÉPÉTITION MINUTES

Developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the new in-house LFT SO 13.01 manual-winding mechanical movement manages to pack a minute repeater, jumping hour and retrograde minutes, plus 80 hours of power reserve, into the 40mm rose-gold case of the Escale RÉPÈtition Minutes, and also synchronise two independent timecalculation systems - one for the striking mechanism and the other for the jumping hour - with the gliding reset of the retrograde minutes hand.

time to read

1 min

Issue 84

WOW Singapore

WOW Singapore

INDEPENDENT SPIRIT

In a break from our usual standard, we sit down for a candid chat with not one but two leaders, Edouard and Bertrand Meylan of H. Moser & Cie

time to read

8 mins

Issue 84

WOW Singapore

WOW Singapore

CHANEL MONSIEUR SUPERLEGGERA BLEU EDITION

Part of the family of watches made of Chanel's recently developed black-blue matt ceramic, which took five years of development and was unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, the 42mm Monsieur Superleggera Bleu Edition took design cues from motor sports, especially race-car speedometers, for the arrangement of its complications on the enigmatic black guillochÈ dial: a generous jumping-hour indication at 6 o'clock, retrograde minutes tracked on a 240-degree circular scale at the top, and a small seconds subcounter in between.

time to read

1 min

Issue 84

WOW Singapore

WOW Singapore

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS MIDNIGHT HEURE D'ICI & HEURE D'AILLEURS

Among the maison's Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 highlights, the 38mm rosegold watch with a deceptively prosaic name meaning 'time here and time elsewhere' references its 2014 predecessor with the same set of complications - dual time zones with double jumping hours and a retrogrademinutes mechanism and the same dial layout: the baseline hour in the upper window, and the second time zone's hour in the lower window.

time to read

1 min

Issue 84

WOW Singapore

WOW Singapore

THE NON-COMPLIANT CHRONOGRAPH

TAG Heuer made its most consequential statement in a generation at Watches & Wonders 2024: the most thoroughly transformed Monaco in decades and an entirely new category of chronograph that the industry will be studying for years

time to read

11 mins

Issue 84

WOW Singapore

WOW Singapore

X-RAY VISION

As precious metal costs soar, horology may find unexpected upsides in the art of removal. We explore how brands are utilizing openworking to elevate technical virtuosity to match rising prices

time to read

6 mins

Issue 84

WOW Singapore

WOW Singapore

TECHNICALLY SPEAKING

For the contemporary collector, a complication is more than a feat of engineering; it is an invitation to seek out a lineage of excellence. Whether it is Advanced Research at Patek Philippe or Hybris Inventiva at Jaeger-LeCoultre, we look at the specific breakthroughs - in sound, speed, and celestial tracking - that serve as the definitive anchors for the next era of watch collecting

time to read

26 mins

Issue 84

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