Munich to My Ears

Most people don't go to Munich for the jewelry. Paris, maybe, for Marie Louise's diamond push present in the Galerie d'Apol-lon at the Louvre. Or London for the Black Prince's Ruby (it was actually a spinel) in the Tower. New York, even, for Louis Comfort Tiffany's Montana sapphires at the Met. But stand in front of Queen Anne of Bohemia's crown in the Treasury of the Munich Residenz and you realize: Those people are wrong.

- BY STELLENE VOLANDES

Studded with rubies, emeralds, pearls, and sapphires, the crown dates from 1370 and is the oldest surviving English royal crown (Anne was the queen of Richard II). Not far from it is a stone-encrusted statue of St. George slaying the (emerald) dragon. There are also glass cases of highly precious Bavarian royal medals and regalia, an enormous diamond and spinel crown and necklace, and another crown studded with natural pearls. Those are just the highlights. The historic jewels on display in the former palace of the Wittelsbach monarchs of Bavaria may be one of the most underappreciated collections in the world.

Move past the crowns and tiaras and stone reliquaries, and there are entire rooms dedicated to materials, including one devoted just to vessels and objets hand-carved from clear quartz. Then comes another one for jasper, and amber, and lapis lazuli. The Residenz is the largest city palace in Germany; wandering through its many halls makes that clear. The Grotto, the Hall of Antiquities, the Green Room, and the lacquer room with all the miniatures will likely be the places you remember.