Where Are All the Women Designers?

There's something missing from luxury fashion houses. And it's too obvious to be an oversight.

- BY EMMA CHILDS

Five years ago, Hillary Taymour, the founder of one of New York City's buzziest independent fashion labels, Collina Strada, was interviewing for a new job. A creative director post had opened up at a European women's luxury brand—and if Taymour landed the role, she'd level up from dressing a devoted, U.S.-based clientele to designing for millions of women worldwide. After eight months spent interviewing with both HR reps and company executives, the SCAD alum felt confident she'd landed the gig. She even began packing her bags, arranged for someone to take over her Manhattan lease, and planned her first-day outfit as the new leader of a heritage fashion house.

But then the brand called back with a disheartening update: A male designer had been selected instead. Taymour was heartbroken but not surprised. To date, she's been in the running for creative director openings at seven other women's luxury brands. All but one position went to a male designer—an exception she says was simply a company mandate. the opportunity to dress women is appalling,” Taymour says, resigned, on a Zoom call in June.

Her story crystallizes a broader issue at the top of the fashion food chain: Coveted luxury womenswear creative director roles—those that design runway collections and set trends that eventually filter down to fast fashion—are still overwhelmingly held by men. Despite luxury fashion being an industry built around what women want to wear, women are rarely given a say in what that actually is.

Over the past few years, the major luxury houses have been playing a game of “creative director musical chairs,” as the fashion commentariat has come to call it. Alessandro Michele left Gucci and is now at Valentino; Pierpaolo Piccioli, previously at Valentino, starts at Balenciaga this October. Demna Gvasalia, formerly of Balenciaga, has taken over at Gucci, following a two-year tenure by Sabato De Sarno, who took over from Michele.