INSIDE Out

Indian couturiers are referencing folklore figures & mysticism to get in touch with their inner selves and create from there reports Manish Mishra

- Manish Mishra

Couture is often a reflection of our times, and couturiers across the world have, time and again, reacted to challenging moments with their thought-provoking showcases.

From floating a sincere plea to end a socio-political turmoil to addressing the conflicting realities confronting us, couture creators often find themselves diving deep into the spiritual realm and ancient wisdom to look for answers.

Over decades, couture's laboratory has fashioned moving creations steeped in symbolism, cosmology and folklore fantasy. This synergy between couture and spirituality isn't new but dates back to the works of classic couturiers.

Elsa Schiaparelli's 1939 evening dress embroidered with the 'keys of the kingdom' given by Jesus Christ to St Peter comes to mind. Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring/Summer 2007 dress featuring the Madonna & Child and Dolce & Gabbana's Fall/Winter 2013 line-up, which featured saints in bejewelled pints inspired by Sicily's Monreale Cathedral Byzantine mosaics, are prominent examples where designers forged their creativity with religious imagery. For Christian Dior's Spring/Summer 2020 couture collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri had goddesses on her moodboard as she reconciled divinity with empowerment. The very same year, Virginie Viard at Chanel had a Catholic conception of spirituality as she drew inspiration from a trip to the Abbey of Aubazine, a convent where Coco Chanel grew up. Cut to the present, and couture is once again in the midst of this engaging and enchanting dialogue.