Bhopal's Begums

Shweta Vepa Vyas discovers how these trailblazing royal women wielded fashion as a statement of power F independence

- Shweta Vepa Vyas

As you step through the stately entrance of the Jehan Numa Palace in Bhopal, you're greeted by a formidable portrait of Shah Jahan Begum. Draped in ceremonial regalia-a sash, a cape adorned with badges and medals, and a bejewelled crown topped with a feathered plumeshe epitomises 19th-century power dressing. If you linger a moment longer, you realise every element of her attire asserts authority and offers a glimpse into the sartorial splendour of the begums of Bhopal.

WOMEN WHO CHANGED THE COURSE OF HISTORY

The story of Bhopal is intertwined with the story of its women, none of whom were content playing second fiddle to the men. Take the Gond queen Kamlapati, for instance, who was a skilled archer, horsewoman and warrior.

When her husband was poisoned by his nephew, the queen avenged his death and safeguarded her kingdom by enlisting the services of the mercenary Mohammed Khan. It was his dynasty that would go on to rule the state, but it's the reign of the feisty begums that truly stands out. The story began with a bang-quite literally. In 1819, a young Nawab Nazar Mohammaed Khan was accidentally shot in the head by his eightyear-old cousin. In cinematic style, his widow, Qudsia begum, took off her veil at his funeral and declared herself regent up until her daughter, Sikander begum, came of age. To fend off claimants to the throne and assert their authority, the begums proudly referred to themselves as 'nawabs' and mastered skills like sword fighting, archery, and horseback riding-and naturally, they had to look the part.

POWER DRESSING FOR THE AGES