THREADED TRADITION

In an industry driven by fast fashion, there are some ateliers that champion heritage embroideries rooted in permanence, with legacy preserved in every thread. Four couture houses share how they embellish their designs with intricate artisanship, where the process is as meaningful as the garment

- SHARI ADHIKARY

In the number-driven world of fashion, sustaining the practice of a heritage craft isn't free from challenges.

Yet, there are consummate designers continually celebrating traditional hand embroideries through exquisite couture, presenting them in their most authentic and intricate form. They recognise the value of the laborious artisanal work and deeply respect the resilience of our country's craftspeople, which has amazed the world for generations. This legacy is chronicled in a timeless narrative of elegance, adhering to the sanctity of quiet luxury.

ZEALOUS ZARDOZI

At a curated show held last winter, luxury label Divani exhibited apparel that could have been part of a bride's trousseau from an era gone by. A cloud of nostalgia ensconced the tangible presence of old yet gleaming designs that were showcased along with vintage iron trunks, radios, photo frames, handwritten letters and gramophones. It was a sepia-tinted image waiting to come alive at the faint wafting in of a thumri or ghazal, making it apparent that the minds behind Divani had been, for over a decade, safeguarding heirlooms and rare vintage zardozi treasures replete with generations of history.

“Many of these outfits were entrusted to us by families who preserved them for centuries,” says Sanya Dhir, who founded Divani in 2013. “Our master artisans restored them to their magnificent form, embroidered in pure silver and gold threads, embellished with precious stones. We wanted connoisseurs to get a glimpse of authentic zardozi practised earlier to gauge the quality of our work.”

“We don't replicate heirlooms; we push our artisans to uphold the same intricacy, authenticity, and soul of the technique, while reimagining zardozi in a form that speaks to today's world. It's a conscious pursuit to ensure that these centuries-old traditions are not diluted, but carried forward with dignity, precision, and the depth they deserve.”