Desert-Drifted Threads: Weaving the Wave of Sustainability

The global fashion industry continues to generate significant environmental damage through fast fashion and synthetic production, while India's traditional textiles offer a contrasting legacy rooted in sustainability.

- Nandini Redasani, Kiran Gehlot, Prof (Dr) Bhawana Chanana, Dr Bhawna Soun

Abstract: Crafts such as Leheriya from Rajasthan demonstrate natural materials, low-energy processes, and a decentralised artisan economy that reflect circular and slow-fashion principles. The roll-resist dyeing technique, cultural symbolism, and minimal resource use position Leheriya as a model of ecological textile practice. Case studies of Ikat, Kalamkari, and Banarasi brocade further highlight sustainable methods that reduce waste and promote longevity. However, challenges such as synthetic imitations and declining natural dye usage threaten artisan livelihoods. Strengthening Gl protection and promoting authentic crafts are essential for safeguarding this heritage within contemporary sustainable fashion.

Keywords: Sustainable textiles; Leheriya; Slow fashion; Circular economy; Traditional crafts

Introduction

India's textile heritage represents one of the world's oldest and most sustainable craft traditions, rooted in natural fibres, artisanal skills, and a circular approach to material use. At a time when global fashion is being challenged for its environmental footprint, Indian handloom practices offer valuable lessons in low-impact production and cultural continuity. Among these traditions, the colourful tie-dye of Rajasthan—especially Leheriya—stands out as an example of slow, skill-intensive textile making that continues to inspire contemporary sustainability movements. This article explores the artistic, cultural, and ecological significance of Leheriya, examines its technique and challenges, and highlights why preserving such crafts is essential for the future of responsible fashion.

I. The Quiet Revolution in Indian Textiles