Southern Super Nova
Issue 150
|Climbing
Thirty-plus Years Ago, Driven First Ascensionist Rob Robinson Discovered the Tennessee Wall. In His Career, He’s Authored Hundreds of New Routes and Dramatically Expanded Chattanooga Climbing.
“I HAD A TREMENDOUS appetite for being right on the line where everything was at stake,” says Rob Robinson. In July of 1985, on a humid 105° day, Robinson jammed out a 35-foot roof, one of the largest at Chattanooga’s Tennessee Wall. He hung once on the “one in a million” crack. That night, Robinson slept in the same dirty clothes to preserve the bond he felt for his new project. He returned the next day, partially inverting his body to move through a blank crux section, and fought through a shallow slot to the finish.
“My energy and the climb’s seemed to fuse,” Robinson wrote in his ChatTrad guidebook. “I felt like I had merged with the Center of the Sandstone Universe in a spectacular and incomprehensible way.” Robinson dubbed the route Celestial Mechanics (5.12), a term he’d learned while studying astrophysics at the University of Tennessee. Celestial mechanics is the calculated movement of astronomical objects in space, and the name reflected his years of orbit around the development of Southern sandstone.
In 1975, when he was 15, Robinson got his start on rock during a month-long summer course in Wyoming’s Tetons and Montana’s Beartooth Mountains. Earlier that year, disinterested with private-school life, he had left Chattanooga’s prestigious Baylor School. A relative of the family, who was a former NOLS instructor, suggested that Robinson might benefit from time in the mountains. At first, the perpetually frozen fingers and rigors of mountaineering did not appeal to Robinson. But on a sunny day toward the end of his sojourn, he climbed the 400-foot Baxter’s Pinnacle, a 5.9 in the Tetons.
“That climb cemented my love for climbing,” says Robinson. “So when I got back to Chattanooga, I looked at all the cliffs around here and started exploring.”
هذه القصة من طبعة Issue 150 من Climbing.
اشترك في Magzter GOLD للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة، وأكثر من 9000 مجلة وصحيفة.
هل أنت مشترك بالفعل؟ تسجيل الدخول
المزيد من القصص من Climbing
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Thirty-plus Years Ago, Driven First Ascensionist Rob Robinson Discovered the Tennessee Wall. In His Career, He’s Authored Hundreds of New Routes and Dramatically Expanded Chattanooga Climbing.
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New Dawn
On November 21, 2016, after an eight-day push, 23-year-old Czech climber Adam Ondra topped out the 32-pitch Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d) on Yosemite’s El Capitan, a line many consider the hardest free big wall on the planet. With eight pitches of 5.14 and 12 pitches of 5.13, the route garnered mainstream-media attention in January 2015 when Tommy Caldwell, who had put seven years of work into exploring and freeing the route, and Kevin Jorgeson nabbed the first free ascent after 19 days on the wall. Ondra, who had never been to the Valley, trad climbed, or been on a big wall before, nabbed the second ascent, thanks in part to his support team of Pavel Blazek and Heinz Zak.Although Ondra has ticked some of the planet’s hardest sport climbs and boulder problems, critics assumed the experience-driven discipline of big wall free climbing would shut him down. Despite success that seemingly came easy, conditions, skin, and the route’s pure technical difficulty posed challenges along the way. Caldwell, Jorgeson, and Ondra spoke to us about the nuts, bolts, and near-invisible micro-crimps of this historic ascent.
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