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LITTLE ITALY

August 2021

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Gourmet Traveller

In the heart of the NSW Riverina there’s a thriving Italian community creating a little slice of Italy, discovers KARLIE VERKERK.

- KARLIE VERKERK.

LITTLE ITALY

There are two things you absolutely must take to Griffith: a pair of stretchy pants and an extra bag to cart home all the goodies you accumulate along the way. There will be packets of dried pasta, crisp almond bread wafers, biscotti, prunes and olive oil… and that’s not to mention the dozens of bottles of wine.

It’s safe to say there’s no shortage of delicious food in Griffith – Italian food to be specific. The city, which is located in the heart of the NSW Riverina, on Wiradjuri land, is a little slice of Italy in Australia thanks to the Italian migrants who settled here in the early 1900s. Now, more than 60 per cent of the city’s population claim Italian heritage.

While there’s no doubt the region’s history is rich – just ask a local about the disappearance of Donald Mackay – there’s something of a resurgence happening in Griffith. Drawn in by the high quality of produce and opportunity to start their own businesses, a younger generation is returning home to reinvigorate traditions and bolster the already robust food scene. Walk into any shop or restaurant and you’ll find no less than two generations working side by side.

It’s also not hard to see why the region has been described as the nation’s food bowl. A hop and a skip from the main strip will land you in vibrant orange orchards, sprawling vineyards or rice paddies. Here, we explore the best places to eat, play and stay in and around Griffith.

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