EXPRESSIONS OF NORTHWEST SPAIN

The reds from this area are incredibly varied, but not always well known – despite the high price of the most famous. Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW picks 20 from across the spectrum

- Pedro Ballesteros Torres

Northwest Spain consists of five regions, two distinctive climates and a little transition zone. The four regions facing the Atlantic ocean (Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia) are known as Green Spain. It rains a lot here – more than in England. There are many different types of soil, topography is very rugged and temperatures are mild.

The grape varieties in this corner of Spain are original and indigenous, with ancient origins. It is believed that, at the time of the Romans, vineyards extended into the Atlantic and northern latitudes thanks to accidental crossings between Mediterranean grape varieties and the native varieties of northern Spain. Other varieties could have been imported through the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route in the Middle Ages.

Potential unlocked

Green Spain and its microclimates are a paradise for distinctive red wines redolent of their origins, expressing freshness, delicacy and subtlety. Sadly, these qualities were the reason for the style being relatively unknown throughout the centuries, as locals preferred the hearty reds from the south. Today these northwestern wines – while still not widely available – are appreciated in high-end markets because of their finesse and inimitability. They are the benchmark for the Atlantic character: pale, with restrained aromatic expressions, crisp acidity, suave tannins, a gentle yet persistent finish and lots of personalities.