ERIC BOISSENOT

He may be happy to maintain a low profile, yet consultant oenologist Eric Boissenot is as highly regarded as they come, appreciated by his many clients for his precision, skill and ability to bring vitality to a wine. James Lawther MW finds out more

- James Lawther MW

He is arguably one of the most influential figures in Bordeaux, particularly the Médoc, but apart from industry insiders, few people know of him. He’s reserved rather than outspoken, sensitive rather than thick-skinned, nonchalant in his dress and manner, doesn’t own a great château – though he frequents many – avoids publicity and doesn’t have a chauffeur-driven car. So, who is Eric Boissenot?

The straight-up answer: he’s a consultant oenologist. It’s the ‘to whom’ that raises eyebrows, for among his 150-odd clients, 40 are 1855 classed growths, including first-growth châteaux Lafite, Latour, Margaux, and Mouton Rothschild, plus super-seconds such as Léoville Las Cases and Ducru-Beaucaillou.

On the books, as well, are a host of ‘lesser’ Médoc châteaux that he values just as highly, and a small percentage of overseas clients – Concha y Toro being one example. But it’s not just the names that are important. The style of wine he embodies carries equal weight, with classicism, finesse, and terroir the watchwords.

Father’s footsteps

Boissenot was patently born into the job. His father Jacques was also a highly respected consultant oenologist, who trained and worked with legendary French oenologist Emile Peynaud, so Eric follows an eminent lineage. His youth was spent knocking around with the sons of local growers in the Médoc village of Lamarque where he was born, the harvest a yearly ritual. When he was 14, his father planned to buy 2ha in APs Haut-Médoc and Margaux, and asked him to oversee them. Hence, by the time he started his studies at the Faculty of Oenology in Bordeaux, he’d already notched up six years’ viticultural and winemaking experience.