Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte

The past three decades have seen the fortunes of this historic estate renewed, becoming a pioneer in both environmental initiatives and wine tourism thanks to the collective imagination and dedication of one family. Jane Anson pays a visit

- Jane Anson

Famously, Château Haut-Brion was the only red wine outside the Médoc region to be recognised in the 1855 Grands Crus Classés ranking. But there was a second estate, just a few miles to the south in the (then) region of Graves, that played an equally important if less high-profile role. This was Château Smith Haut Lafitte, whose owner Lodi-Martin Duffour- Dubergier was mayor of Bordeaux at the time. He was the man who decided to illustrate Bordeaux’s exhibition space in Paris with a classification of the region’s best wines. He instructed the local brokers to come up with a list, so giving the world a set of names that still dominates fine wine today.

Despite having a history that dates back to the 14th century, his own property took another 100 years to be recognised in the 1953 Cru Classé de Graves ranking. But Duffour-Dubergier would be happy to know that Smith Haut Lafitte continues to set the agenda in Bordeaux, leading the way in so many areas that it can be dizzying to keep track.

Setting the standard

Today, Smith Haut Lafitte is not only certified organic (although preferring the term ‘bio precision’ for its use of drone and satellite technology), but is the only property outside the 1855 first growths to make its own barrels from an on-site cooperage. It unquestionably sets the standard, too, that any wine tourism venture in Bordeaux has to meet, with a luxury hotel, restaurant and spa on site, and is the birthplace of the Caudalie beauty range, which uses natural ingredients from grapes and vines.