Rockin' Revival

The original Bodega line-up is back, live, unplugged, and rocking a tiny bar space in Surry Hills.

- Pat Nourse

Never let it be said that the Porteño boys are afraid of flavour. Every plate at Wyno, their new bar, drips with the stuff – cheddar and butter, anchovies and olives, cured fish and fat. Tweezer food it ain’t.

Are you going to eat a richer new dish in Sydney this spring than the plate of fried eggs smothered in a gravy laden with foie gras and the twang of oloroso sherry? Served with buttery triangles of blonde toast, it’ll stop you in your tracks, a yolk-dripping riposte to every snotty slow-cooked egg in town.

Until recently this space was 121BC, the best Italian wine bar the city had ever seen. Apart from the change to the sign out the front and the addition of some plants to the shelf of glasses above the bar, and the fact the map of Italy and the big, light-bulby chandelier are gone, squint and it’s the same room: a narrow corridor partitioned down its length by safety-glass wine for sale in bottles on one side, a low, skinny bar down the other. Dark and convivial and wondrous.