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IRAN: WHERE EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE, But Not So Easy

July - August 2020

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Adventure Motorcycle (ADVMoto)

Do you fancy a beer? No problem, we’ll call our smuggler.Do you want to go on Facebook? No problem, just download a VPN app.Do you want to exchange currency? No problem, but don’t use an ATM, you will get a much better rate on the black market….

- Marta Jastrzab

IRAN: WHERE EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE, But Not So Easy

CROSSING THE BORDER

There are often guys at borders waiting to help tourists through the process. Of course, this service comes with a fee, often not small. There was little choice at the border crossing where we chose to enter Iran. And it didn’t take much time for a border officer to approach me, making it clear I’d have to wear my helmet if I did not have a headscarf. It’s an Iranian law that women must cover their heads at all times when in public. So, there I was, going from window to window with the helmet on until our guide told me that I could take it off because the law did not apply to tourists. I’d just taken it off when another man came up and apologetically repeated that I had to cover my head. A little confused, I put the helmet back on, whereupon the guide wandered back over and told me to take it off. And so it went throughout the border process.

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