Almost 500 years ago Giovanni della Casa (the June Dally Watkins of the Italian Renaissance) penned Galateo: Treatise on the Rules of Polite Behaviour, warning his nephew of the pitfalls of, “Not eating but gobbling.” Since then, the Italians have been refining the rules of dining all’ Italiana.
Don’t put cheese on marinara pasta, this one we know. And never order a cappuccino past 11am. Just don’t. Spaghetti should be twirled around a fork, not cut. And don’t ever question nonna’s recipe. Unless you do. Because debating food over food is also part of the national agenda. The quirks shift from region to region, and some have grown quirkier en route to Australia. So for the Italian-adjacent among us, the rules require frequent re-education (generously dished out over four courses). Ultimately, though, they all boil down to the core Italian belief, food is life and life should be enjoyed to its fullest. Let’s break it down.
Food is always a conversation starter.
Just don’t confuse it as a safe topic. There will be debate. Chef Brigitte Hafner has Bavarian roots but came of age as a chef in Italian kitchens. She learnt a lot working under chefs Guy Grossi and Stefano de Pieri and from team members at Tedesca Osteria. That’s because food is always under discussion. “It’s the build-up to eating – ‘What are we going to cook? Who is going to the market?’ Then it’s the discussion at the table and the recap the next day,” says Hafner, who is just as obsessed. “It’s the ritual of connecting with the food and each other, that gives the Italians so much joy.”
Bu hikaye Gourmet Traveller dergisinin July 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Giriş Yap
Bu hikaye Gourmet Traveller dergisinin July 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Giriş Yap
THE SMOKING CAMEL
Each month we explore the origins behind some of Australia's signature drinks and learn how to recreate them.
MEET THE MAKER HELEN XU
As she swings open the doors to a new restaurant and hotel at her Yarra Valley vineyard, we check in with the Helen & Joey Estate winemaker to talk science, Sichuan and the wine brand she runs with husband Joey Zeng.
Fuel to the fire
From chilli to wasabi, there's an art to pairing drinks with spicy foods. SAMANTHA PAYNE breaks it down.
Sri Lankan hoppers
Chef TRAVIN DE HOEDT of Sydney's Kurumba shares his family recipe for this South Asian staple.
The art of...thoughtful feasting
It was a Moroccan tagine that taught ANNA HART to relax her ethics and eat, drink and be merry like a local.
THE NEW COCKTAIL CAPITAL
Mexico City is in its golden era of cocktail culture. Once home to a small handful of recognisable names, today the capital is heaving with globally renowned drinking destinations. And it's leading the charge for North America on awards lists such as World’s 50 Best (last year, Mexico City landed four bars on the list, compared to three in New York City).
Golden age
Time travel may not be possible but JOANNA HUNKIN discovers the next best thing when she pairs the Eastern & Oriental Express with a journey through Veuve Clicquot's private cellar.
48 HOURS IN PHUKET
Beyond beaches and resorts, Thailand's biggest island is a treasure trove of culinary gems. DANI VALENT gets the inside scoop from restaurateur Merica Charungvat.
LOVE IN A COLD CLIMATE
Fireplaces, slowness and country scenes. Holidaying hits differently in winter
What is curry?
Cuisine or construct? RUSHANI EPA retraces the history of the saucy, spicy dish across the Indian subcontinent and its diaspora.