I first landed in Berlin in the late 1990s, in the heady years after the fall of the Wall. I was aware enough of its licentious reputation to startle a teacher by announcing plans to run away there and open a club. But that first night my girlfriend and I chanced on a bar owned by the Glaswegian cousin of queer artist and filmmaker Derek Jarman. I DJ'd with a pile of scratched 78s, he took us to a party in an after-hours record store run by Russian émigrés, and we ended the morning at a techno night in the basement of a mansion block on Karl-Marx-Allee, sweating among the Stalinist decor.
I've been returning ever since. It's a city that exists in a state of constant flux and reinvention, its patina of history and subcultures overlapping like club flyers on a street wall. I've tried to get a handle on it from the revolving top of the Fernsehturm, clapping for the raggle-taggle performers at Mauerpark's Bearpit Karaoke, browsing gallery shows at the KW Institute for Contemporary Art. Like New York, it's a city whose cultural depictions blur with reality. It's hard to cycle under the Victory Column in Tiergarten without glimpsing Bruno Ganz's angel from the Wim Wenders movie Wings of Desire, or to walk past a late-night corner shop spätis without cutting in a Fassbinder scene. George Grosz caricatures peer from the walls of crowded bars.
Bu hikaye Condé Nast Traveler US dergisinin March 2024 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Giriş Yap
Bu hikaye Condé Nast Traveler US dergisinin March 2024 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Giriş Yap
PAINT THE TOWN
In residential South Kolkata, enterprising young locals are turning brightly colored old estates, once doomed for demolition, into the city's latest hot spots
lost in time
On an epic, sun-soaked journey across southern Greece's Peloponnese, Antonia Quirke revels in her connection to the history and myths that swirl around its rugged shores
home is where you make it
On a road trip through Oman with her toddler son, Ashlea Halpern ponders what it means to be a parent in the wake of her father's death
still lazy after all these years
Decades after a boyhood of easygoing afternoons in Washington State's San Juan Islands, Jesse Ashlock returns with his own children to rediscover this bucolic corner of America where time almost seems to stand still
the 2024 hot list WHERE to STAY, CRUISE & EAT NEXT
It's inevitable: Every spring when we pull together the Hot List, our annual collection of the world's best new hotels, restaurants, and cruise ships, a staffer remarks that this latest iteration has got to be the best one ever. After a year's worth of traveling the globe-to stay the night at a converted farmhouse in the middle of an olive grove outside Marrakech or sail aboard a beloved cruise line's inaugural Antarctic voyage-it's easy to see why we get attached.
RUNWAY TO SANTA FE
Indigenous designer Orlando Dugi shares his favorite art, culture, and cocktails in his adopted hometown
GOLDEN CHILD
A blink-and-you'll-miss-it surf town on Australia's east coast is now a chic weekend getaway
word of mouth
THE PEOPLE, PLACES & IDEAS WE'RE TALKING ABOUT RIGHT NOW
Animal Kingdom
A massive effort in Saudi Arabia to restore its endemic flora and fauna is underway. Now, the country is looking to tourism to help support it
Building Change
On a pristine stretch of Mexico's southwestern coast, anew developmentis grounded in community and creativity