Ernesto's Interregnum
New York magazine|October 26– November 08, 2020
Between our critic’s first and last visits to the Basque-inspired taverna, not much (and everything) has changed.
By Adam Platt
Ernesto's Interregnum

LIKE MANY RESTAURANT FANATICS of a certain age, I used to like to grab a pack or two of matches on my way out the door of the places I reviewed or dined at semi-regularly. Since we have a working fireplace at home, there was some practical value to this old habit, which likely goes back to the vanished era of the Stork Club and the Rainbow Room, when gentlemen drank their martinis straight up at lunchtime and the most sophisticated couples burned through a pack of cigarettes a day. Lots of places have discontinued the practice in recent years, preferring to dispense carefully carved toothpicks, or mini-notepads, or party bags filled with boxes of organic chocolate or granola. In our household, these tend to get lost, or thrown away, or eaten, but the old fine-dining matchbooks still survive, stowed furtively in bathrooms or tossed in a ceramic bowl above the fireplace.

Bu hikaye New York magazine dergisinin October 26– November 08, 2020 sayısından alınmıştır.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

Bu hikaye New York magazine dergisinin October 26– November 08, 2020 sayısından alınmıştır.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

NEW YORK MAGAZINE DERGISINDEN DAHA FAZLA HIKAYETümünü görüntüle
104 MINUTES WITH... Lord Maurice Saatchi
New York magazine

104 MINUTES WITH... Lord Maurice Saatchi

The British advertising executive is thoroughly enjoying the rollout for his new book, Orgasm.

time-read
5 dak  |
May 20 - June 02, 2024
HOW TO CRIMINALIZE a PROTEST
New York magazine

HOW TO CRIMINALIZE a PROTEST

In Atlanta, the George Floyd demonstrations of four years ago are being used as evidence of illegal gang activity-and the activists of today could be next.

time-read
10+ dak  |
May 20 - June 02, 2024
More Than Mad
New York magazine

More Than Mad

Grief drives a fantastic installment in George Miller's series.

time-read
4 dak  |
May 20 - June 02, 2024
War of Attrition
New York magazine

War of Attrition

In the Kendrick-vs.-Drake battle, no one wins.

time-read
4 dak  |
May 20 - June 02, 2024
We've Hit Peak Theater
New York magazine

We've Hit Peak Theater

Nobody knows how to succeed on Broadway anymore.

time-read
10+ dak  |
May 20 - June 02, 2024
Small Plates, Big Checks
New York magazine

Small Plates, Big Checks

Why restaurant prices feel so high—and why they’re going to stay that way.

time-read
3 dak  |
May 20 - June 02, 2024
Nobody Wants to Mow the Lawn at the Beach
New York magazine

Nobody Wants to Mow the Lawn at the Beach

Breck and Georgia Eisner's Amagansett retreat gives the children a cottage of their own.

time-read
2 dak  |
May 20 - June 02, 2024
CHESS BRAT
New York magazine

CHESS BRAT

It was the biggest cheating scandal in chess history. Now, cleared of the most serious accusations, Hans Niemann is gunning for a world title-and doubling down on his opponent-trashing, hotel-wrecking, money-flaunting ways.

time-read
10+ dak  |
May 20 - June 02, 2024
MIRIAM ADELSON'S UNFINISHED BUSINESS
New York magazine

MIRIAM ADELSON'S UNFINISHED BUSINESS

One of Israel's most ardent supporters, she could transform the presidential election if she gives to Trump like she did in 2020.

time-read
10+ dak  |
May 20 - June 02, 2024
ON THE CAMPAIGN TRIAL
New York magazine

ON THE CAMPAIGN TRIAL

Trump is running for president while bumping into the past at a Manhattan criminal courthouse.

time-read
10+ dak  |
May 20 - June 02, 2024