A vestige of colonial america turns out to be a revolutionary ingredient.
Listening to Jonathan Carr talk about apples is a lot like listening to poetry. He tends to use words like “kind” and “gentle,” and when asked why he and his wife Nicole Blum bought an abandoned orchard in western Massachusetts, he replies, “There it was, up on a hill, and it just looked so pretty.” The names of their heirloom varietals roll liltingly off his tongue—Yarlington Mill, Dabinett, Kingston Black— and he describes their flavors so vividly you can almost taste them. “I’ve had a lifelong love of apples,” he says simply.
This led Carr to study fruit science in graduate school, although he admits that it wasn’t all that helpful. “The apple industry,” he laments, “has to consider cosmetic perfection, so they have to rely much more on spraying.” The Carrs, on the other hand, do things the old-fashioned way: slowly, organically, sustainably. “When you put a tree in the ground, wishing it to do good things for 40 or 50 years,” he says, “it’s a hopeful gamble.”
Bu hikaye Town & Country dergisinin November 2017 sayısından alınmıştır.
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Bu hikaye Town & Country dergisinin November 2017 sayısından alınmıştır.
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